Having just wrapped up at LC:M it was quite fitting to ease into my first day at MBFWB with an IVANMAN presentation. The collection proudly displays a colourful juxtaposition of pinks and oranges a la KENZO VINTAGE, and the menswear range was all classic cuts with sportswear twists. Although I am still trying to get my head around Ivanman’s 'Goethes Theory of Colour' inspiration, bursts of bold colour can be seen in some of the pieces such as the morning coat tied back with a flash of pink. I loved the Neoprene tops tucked into high-waisted trousers and the waistcoats constructed with sportswear bands and neoprene backs.
SADAK: Sasa Kovacevic’s collection had me swooning over the low crotch pants and printed organza fabrics in red, black, white, graphic and flower prints. Models stomped down the catwalk in oversized shirts and coats reminiscent of traditional Balkan and Chinese clothing. The influence of the hip hop scene was definitely evident in her work; however this concept was beautifully juxtaposed with a gentler touch produced by the repetition of a flower print that alternated with pasted cut words.
SO POPULAR - 'Revolution Noir': Designer Daniel Blechmans managed to give his all black utilitarian and uniform-styled silhouettes some relief and texture using a variety of different materials from merino, plastic, faux fur, leather, cashmere, and coated and waxed cotton.
PEARLY WONG: The monochrome palate of this collection didn't seem to hinder the range of emotions being expressed through the clothes. Her melange of both angora and leather reminded me of both a sex kitten Barbie and the body con pieces brought to mind the sleek Mrs. Peel from The Avengers. The highlight of the show for me was an amazing sock-like calf armour which kept me intrigued throughout. This is definitely a designer I want to watch.
Kilian KERNER - a touch of Irish skin: After a recent visit to Ireland, this collection is his best yet. It was full of pleats and fringing and his autumnal colours couldn't be more Moorish. Still very much influenced by sports luxe, this collection had a more elegant and seamless feel to it - almost like camouflage. And the men, well I haven't seen anyone do kilts that look so good. My favourite pieces included his Irish inspired shawls and belted print male coats and those heavenly blues.
Photographer Beata Siewicz & various