Frida Kahlo has always been a favourite artist of mine so I was delighted when I saw that Mariana Jungmann’s Autumn/Winter 2016/17 collection at Berlin Fashion Week was inspired by the Mexican artist ! Not just the flowers, on the hair that we have grown accustomed too - whenever her name is mentioned -but the deeper, painful side of this great artist.
Naming her collection Deshecho – after the Spanish word meaning ‘undone’, Jungmann also looked to the often macabre, often strangely sexual body-horror sculptures of artist Monica Piloni to create the strong yet unsettling aesthetic of the garments.
Adding a playful and more feminine touch to the collection, Jungmann combines traditional techniques such as embroidery and different materials to create contrasting textures.
Handmade renaissance lace is featured heavily throughout the collection, embellished with over ten thousand hand embroidered Swarovski crystals; while the Mexican heritage of Kahlo is referenced in the voluminous skirts with traditional Mexican embroidery and non-traditional ponchos.
The collection is a beautifully unexpected combination of tradition and heritage with a contemporary, unorthodox twist.