Ambiguity is nothing new in the fashion industry, however the unique brand of sharp, immaculately tailored, playfully dramatic ambiguity that comes across in Swedish label Odeur Studios’ Autumn Winter 2016 collection is curiously fresh. There were even models hand in hand same sex and not - as to drive home the point! Effective!!
Presenting the collection at Berlin Fashion Week, design duo Petter Hollström and Gorjan Lauseger put forth a selection of highly versatile garments which teetered on the edge between sportswear and wearable casual street wear. It started off a little scary as models walked off the runway into the audience - OMG I though audience participation - it certainly kept me on the edge of my seat!
Using layering and an interplay of different lengths and dimensions to create a wintery silhouette the collection features cropped bomber jackets for both men and women, long blazers over kimono shirts, belted overcoats with some super drop crotch pants. Trailing belts/ribbons which seem to be quite prevalent on the German catwalk this season reminded me of Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm Mclaren Seditionaries.
The collection primarily uses clean and simple blacks and whites, interspersed with the sporadic grey trousers or jacket. Created using a mix of wool, neoprene, cashmere and fine jersey, the garments are occasionally embossed with large black lettering, subtle ton-sur-ton embroidery or graphic rectangular and circular appliques.