At the Pietro Filipi runway show in Prague recently, I was surprised to see some models walking very slowly down the catwalk, while others were practically running and even overtaking the slower models – as a fashionista colleague commented – this wasn’t something you would normally see at a fashion show in Prague.
Despite the innovative catwalk display, Pietro Filipi is a stalwart of sensible luxury fashion in Prague, with a history of raising the benchmark of the Czech and Slovak fashion scene for over 20 years. And although there was nothing in the collection that really got my pulse racing, it is clearly evident that his clothes work fabulously well.
The collection was all minimalist cuts and high quality material and tailoring for both men and women. The design concept is interesting and modern though, especially in the light of the increasing numbers of European fashion houses taking on creatives from different mediums to work with their in-house design teams.
Filipi’s collections are created by a team of designers headed up by Martha Bryxi. The creative minds behind the label’s womenswear label include Margarida Machado, Lay Sedlakova, Anna Tuskova (co-founder of Chatty, which also showed at MBPFW) and Ivana Mentlova (with own label Iam), who created the silver line collection utilising luxury materials such as lamb skin wool and silk.
The menswear collection was designed by Vladimir Stanek (Founder of his own label Stanik). Themes are developed and discussed by the entire design team in a cooperative way.
The design concept behind this year’s AW collection was a ‘frozen moment’, with a colour palette of mostly conservative greys, blacks and beiges, with greens, yellows and reds adding drama. Adding to the models 50's - 90's make up, were on trend socks and shoes by Bafa. The most impressive highlight looks of the show were part of the silver line collection of coats with indulgent fur sleeves.