Berthold’s Spring/Summer collection is an exploration of volume and how volume can be controlled, folded and tucked away. Inspired by the sharp silhouettes that resulted when an archival French army cavalry coat was wrapped around the body, the collection also plays with lightness and scale; and the final outcome is a vibe of formal ease and buoyancy.
Berthold pairs natural woven cotton and suiting with technical performance and outerwear fabrics and further successful contrasts can be seen in the fine gauge oversized men’s T’s, which see the mixing of striped squares with clean and crisp long-line jackets.
Bold and graphic additions to the collection include asymmetric-front jackets in engineered lightweight leather and I for one was a big fan of the wide-legged trousers which were controlled by jerseys with slightly longer lines – a nod to the collection’s disciplined breeziness which was inspired by Anish Kapoors art installation 'Ascension Red' from the Guggenheim New York.
The colour palette is made up of reds, ivory, steel and natural, uncomplicated blacks.
Photographs Wilhem Jespert