I’m still in New York for a long seven days, for the first Ready to Wear shows of the FW2018 season. Despite the absolutely freezing weather outside, it seemed as though some of the collections, such as the Ralph Lauren cruise inspired collection, seemed to forget they were designing for autumn and winter, but then I guess if you’re being picked up by a car outside the show, you’re not going to be braving the elements very long!
Weather aside, I noticed some serious political statements amongst the fashion – not surprising considering the year of political upheaval that the USA has just been through.
Most notably, Brooklyn-born Pyer Moss designer, Kerby Jean-Raymond, made his opinions heard with a Cross Colours logo on western style shirts and sweats; in reference to the cult black-owned brand of the 90s who were all about racial unity, and whose slogan was ‘clothes without prejudice’.
The collection also nodded to the little known black cowboys of American history such as Bill Picket, and Jean-Raymond further highlighted his message by sending his models down the runway to a background of gospel choir music produced artist and R&B producer, Raphael Saadiq.
Río Uribe celebrated diversity, acceptance, inclusion and individuality in all its glorious forms with his notoriously rebellious label Gypsy Sport, which sent a 10-year old, self-proclaimed ‘Kinder Drag Star’ down the catwalk, alongside trans activist Munroe Bergdorf and a squad of proudly gender fluid, non-binary models and influencers.
Finally, back on home territory, Río Uribe used a selection of DIY materials including his Grandmothers hand crochet doilies to make a personal statement about sustainable fashion.