The three days of Milan Fashion Week are done, and as always it was the place where beautiful materials reigned supreme. And as far as I am concerned, the best shoes are always in Milan! This year I was particularly enthralled by some wondrous Chelsea boots. Also, was is it just me or were there quite a few British inspired references, what with Prada’s Frankenstein inspired collection, with Neil Barrett’s 20-year anniversary punk tribute with a collection named ‘Born in Britain’, with the Cool Britannia vibes at M1992 where an air of Suburbia blended with 90’s mod, and finally with the Cappellificio Cervi hats at Ermenegildo Zegna, which wouldn’t look out of place on a British hunting party. But now to the trends:
Bed J W Ford
1. Velvet: Velvet was everywhere, worn head to toe and notably often in that gorgeous golden ochre brown like at Sartorial Monk, or in reddish-brown at Bed J.W. Ford.
Neil Barrett
2. Animal Print: Leopard print still looks like it’s going to be big for men. Personally, I loved the more discreet graphic leopard simulation over a Prince of Wales check dinner suit at Neil Barrett. Although, for the more out-there men, he also had a variety of sweaters with a three-animal print combination.
Ermenegildo Zegna
3. Wide Pants: Trousers continue to favour a wider leg this MFWM. At Japanese brand Bed J.W. Ford pant legs were narrowed down with button tabs and at Ermenegildo Zegna – who opened Milan Fashion Week – wide trousers were also tapered down with three straps at the sides to create a second slimmer silhouette. The best bit about the collection was that some of the materials were recycled from their own off-cut stocks. So, who says it can’t be done!
Miaoran
4. Black trenches and Black Suits: Black felt fresh again, and I am sure it’s got something to do with Hedi Slimane or maybe Prada’s black nylon Vela bag. I liked the way heavy trenches and boxy suits were given a certain lightness. At Sartorial Monk soft volumes and luxurious fabrics like cashmere and wool, made the longest and darkest of black coats seem like a protective envelope for the wearer. at Miaoran, trenches were lightened with stripes on the interior, and boxy black suits were piped in a lighter colour. At Prada there was a sheen to everything black in both men and women, although I couldn’t keep my eyes off the tractor treads on their new sneakers from the Cloudbust ‘Thunder’ range, which were just wow!