With Paris Fashion Week Men’s done for AW19, its time to look back at the trends in a season dominated by a return to sartorial tailoring and heavy, oversized outerwear.
Supersized was a hot look in Paris last week, with pumped-up pieces mostly reserved to outwear, seen throughout the collections, in styles ranging from classic tailored overcoats, to duffels, trenches and macs. In Vibe Harsloef’s second collaboration with Facetasm, the jewellery designer developed jewellery by interpreting their use of symbols and references to magic and turned them into wearables in silver, the rings were featured on a model wearing pants of different cut and colours.
In fact Facetasm featured royal blue, oversized button-down jacket, a dusty pink ‘bigger is better’ poncho with a hood and a roomy black leather jacket. Raf Simons, Acne and Berluti did fabulous oversized coats in an on-trend array of vibrant colours. Puffa jackets also made a super-sized comeback, such as Henrik Vibskov’s gorgeous bright orange puffa.
The prevalent trend for tailoring can be seen in Dries van Noten’s collection, which addresses the question – with politics such a mess, how should the civilised adult compose himself? The answer? In slickly tailored suits – whether that’s elegant navy tie-die print or gender norm breaking with man-skirts (I predict the rise of the man-skirt this year – the look was all over the catwalks in Paris. Just look at Armando Costa).
Denim was another big thing in the suits department, with glorious slim cut styles being shown at Jil Sander and an elegant one-piece denim suit at Henrik Vibskov. And Jacquemus went all French countryside, work-wear vibes in his tailoring for AW19.
There was a nod to British fashion in Paris this season, as well as a lot of Day-Glo and animal print. It was interesting to see new menswear designers on the block, such as Christian Wijnants – previously known for his unique womenswear label – with his stunningly elegant luxury knitwear for men, and let’s not forget, the now almost ubiquitous gender bending, as was seen in Lazoschmidl’s collection, with its one shoulder, body hugging leotards and sparkly two-pieces.