The spotlight shone on the world’s most prolific designers at Paris Fashion Week SS2020, with the French capital providing a stylish platform for the hottest trends for the coming season.
Those sugary pastels and pinks which have prevailed across catwalks over the past few months, were out in full glory in Paris. Easily a defining trend for spring 20, Vuitton, Balmain, Berluti and Dior all went for sweet, candy-coloured shades of, purples pinks and pastel blues used across more tailored pieces as well as streetwear styles such as GMBH (all jerseys are in organic cotton and recycled polyamide and accessories are vegan leather ) and Loewe, or Paul Smith’s oversized salmon suiting and Li-Ning sportswear collection.
Excuse me if I just dwell on the 70’s for a second, it happens to be my favourite era, and certainly PFW SS20 saw a return of some of the iconic 70’s looks. Just look at the 70s-style flares paired with slim-cut blazers at Celine, flower power shirts at Vuitton and Dries Van Noten, denim on denim at Balmain, Loewe and Valentino, or Lazoschmidl fetish ’70s-era style collection covered in highlighter hues.
Utilitarian dressing continues to be hot for the next season, with urban futurism the name of the game at Kim Jones Dior where all-white outfits came complete with gleaming trekking hats, this show for me together with Rick Owens was by far one of the best shows in Paris. To start off there was the installation of American artist Daniel Arsham –of four sculpted letters spelling out D I O R. Crafted from white, crumbling stone the pink sand gave it a purity that hurt . The collection itself included sharp tailored with a new air of soft masculinity I specifically liked the series of micro pleating that was then dyed and applied on the pieces. Fantastic on the sheer bomber jackets, tailored suits and simple tops! Then of course there was the saddle bag for men,the Galliano newspaper print, the dense repetitive Dior logo, etcc so many jaw dropping details.
I must not forget Dunhill and GMBH, where practical desert-wear was given a stylish urban update, and Tatras which was all utilitarian vintage military.