There are certain inspirations that have a cyclical effect on the fashion industry, catalysing the creativity of designers and helping to shape collections again and again.
One of those themes which seems to have come around for another turn in the spotlight recently is the dreaded ‘Circus Effect’.I say dreaded because I personally am not a big fan of the circus, but when I saw it translated into the stunning Spring Summer 2019 haute couture collection that Greek designer Celia Kritharioti showed at Couture Fashion Week in Paris, I could feel my opinion swaying. The collection – called Cirque des Couleurs – was colourful, sublime and playful, full of ethereal pieces with theatrical shapes. There was a sense of escapism in the dreamlike dresses in silk, tulle, taffeta, organza and lace. Shimmering catsuits and flamboyant ostrich plumes added to the circus chic feel.
Then of course, there was Dior, which went full-on circus for its Spring Summer 2019 Haute Couture collection, with creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri at the helm. The show took place inside an actual circus tent in the gardens of Musée Rodin in Paris and was inspired by characters from the Italian circus tradition, with references to clowns, ring masters and jesters; all as live acrobatics performed around the runway.
Moschino brought the circus to town for its Resort 2019 collection, with a razzle-dazzle themed collection by fashion’s ringmaster of ‘fun’ – AKA the brand’s creative director,Jeremy Scott. There were nods to clowns, magicians, lion tamersand trapeze artists, and plenty of multi-coloured, sequined zebra, tiger and leopard prints, lurex knits,tulle, ostrich-feathers and silk capes.
Nuria Gonzalez’s 2019 collection reminded me of a trapeze artist, with brilliant colours and a circus like nostalgia. Models in swimwear donned circus hats on the runway and the fabulous sparkling green coat was definitely reminiscent of a ringmaster’s jacket – escapism at its best!
Nuria González by Santiago Ladeiro